Mr Ketuk, our guide drives over to a tropical plantation where bright boards advertising Kopi Luwak jostle the vanilla shrubs. We are handed pamphlets and invited to taste the different beverages brewed from the coffee, ginseng , ginger and vanilla plants grown there. Prajit finds a bored Indonesian civet cat (Luwak) in a small cage, a "specimen" proudly displayed to curious tourists by the farmhelps. The lethargic animal , well fed on ripe coffee berries doesn't appear amused on being woken up from his afternoon siesta and passively poses for a photogragh. The click of the camera is, but a mundane affair!
A bored Luwak
Kopi Luwak , believed to be the most expensive coffee in the world is not a favourite among the locals who relish Bali Kopi. Our guide warns us of the flavour. The luwak or civet cats found in Indonesia feed on ripe coffee berries and excrete the beans. Trained farm helps collect the coffee beans from the poop! Unlike the normal coffee bean, luwak beans are not sun-dried, but are roasted directly after collection.
Prajit tasting Kopi Luwak
Like a Kopi Luwak aficionado puts it," It's all in the guts".Connoisseurs love the unique and inimitable flavour imparted to the coffee beans as they pass down through the animal's intestines. Prajit has the guts to taste Luwak Coffee and finds the concoction "smooth" and "distinct"! We are encouraged by our hosts to taste every beverage on the menu: Ginseng Kopi, Ginger Tea, Vanilla ,Kopi Luwak, Milk Tea and Bali Kopi.I fall hopelessly in love with Ginseng Coffee and proceed to order more than three cups! Perfectly invigorating, the smell of freshly roasted coffee beans permeates the air and I am high on caffeine.
We then drive over to Mahagiri Restaurant which offers a spectacular view of mount Agung. Gunung Agung is a stratovolcano which last erupted in 1963-64. It is the highest point in Bali and is considered holy by the Balinese who believe that Mt Agung is a fragment of Mt Meru which many believe to be the axis of the universe. After a filling buffet, we continue our journey along the meandering roads and are amazed at the sight of terraced paddy fields.
After a peaceful slumber and sumptuous breakfast, we decide to explore the art villages of Ubud. We are guided by our garrulous cab driver, Mr.Ketut Ardana. "Balinese are happy people. Simple. No money but shtill very happy. Always smiling", he says. We concur.
We visit Ayu Mas Lukisan , a painting art studio. Mr Ketut informs us that such studios are owned by village communities in which many artists work together to develop their ideas and sell their paintings. A share of the proceeds from selling a painting goes to benefit the community.
Artist paint Oleg Tambulilingan
Young apprentices at Ayu Mas
After buying a couple of Balinese paintings, we head to Sila Gallery, where wood carving is systematically carried out by dexterous young men.
We arrive at the Ubud Palace at 7.15 pm to watch the " Legong Dance " presented by Bina Remaja Troupe .The Palace built in 16th Century AD, is an architectural marvel, decked with lamps and colourful Tedung, or ceremonial umbrellas very similar to the muthukuda umbrellas used in Kerala. The stage is set at Ancak Saji Palace courtyard for an enthralling Legong Dance performance organized by Tedung Agung Performance Institution. The place is thronged by eager tourists like us and other patrons who distribute pamphlets to the foreigners to aid us in our comprehension of the show.
Ubud Palace decked up for the Legong Dance
GAMELAN MUSIC
We find many tourists seated on a mat or some huddled together on a row of chairs alongside the central stage strewn with Champa flowers. As we find our space, the musicians begin the Kebyar Dang , a variant of the traditional Indonesian music using Gamelan which is a distinct musical ensemble comprising metallophones , xylophones , drums , gongs , bamboo flutes and plucked or bowed strings which are built and tuned to stay together. No two gamelan ensembles are the same. Varying forms of gamelan ensembles are distinguished by their collection of instruments and use of voice, tunings, repertoire, style, and cultural context.
Kebyar Dang performed by Gamelan Musicians
Kebyar which means "the process of flowering", is one of the most popular genres of Balinese Gamelan music characterized by the synchronization of sudden and gradual tranformations in the dynamics , tempo and melody. The instruments offer a wide range of pitches and timbres, from a smooth, resonating gong at the low end to piercing shrieks at the high end, spanning five octaves. Kebyar also involves complementary melodic and rhythmic patterns interwoven together known as kotekan.
PUSPA WRESTI
Puspa Wresti Dancers
This is a ritual dance, very similar to the invocation dance performed in the begining of a Bharatanatyam recital . The beautiful dancers in colourful ensembles , adorned with traditional jewellery , flowers and make-up brings the "offering" for the temple ceremony. The captivating poses, emphasized by spry and precise finger movements and well coordinated expressions are the hallmarks of the dance form. The Balinese dancer invokes the blessings of the Gods and wishes that flowers of joy rain on the audience.
TOPENG KERAS
Topeng Keras or Topeng Kras
Topeng literally means "mask ".This dance drama evolves from a cult of Balinese ancestors who believed dancers to be divine interpreters. Topeng Keras/Kras which represents a martial authoritarian, involves a character wearing a red mask which symbolizes intense anger.
Accompanied by Gamelan music , the Topeng Kras attired in an elaborate costume with a resplendent cloak uses hand gestures and rhythmic feet movements to convey wrath.
This role may not be related to the story being performed, but certainly adds to the awe.
Legong Dancer
LEGONG KRATON
Legong dancers are young girls, who attend rigorous trainings from the age of five. The beauty of the dancers, accentuated by their elaborate make-up , head gear decked with fresh flowers , ornate jewellery and vibrant attire is bewitching. Accompanied by the kebyar, the nimble fingers of the nymphs move rhythmically and gracefully, transporting the audience to a mythical land of grandeur and harmony.
Legong dancers are highly respected in the society and are much sought after by wealthy merchants and aristocrats in marriage.
Oleg Tambulilingan
OLEG TAMBULILINGAN
A traditional Balinese dance of love captures the essence of romance in this sensuous choreography.
Oleg Tambulilingan
A beautiful flower symbolizing a girl, gracefully attracts a young audacious bumble-bee symbolizing a young man. The expressions and the playful gestures of teasing and flirting are wonderfully portrayed by the dancers
Kebyar Duduk/Taruna Jaya
KEBYAR DUDUK OR TARUNA JAYA
In this contemporary dance, a young girl dancer dressed as a boy depicts the optimism, zest and valour of a young prince. The emphasis is on the exuberance of youth.
JAUK DANCE
Jauk
Another mask dance wherein a demon displays his freedom and elation in the jungle.
The mask, head gear and the costumes are impressive. The hands of the dancer adorned with gloves sporting sharp, pointed finger nails contribute to the diabolical aura .
The enthralling performance was concluded by soothing Gamelan music. We retire at 9 p.m and reach our bungalow, the quietude interrupted by the occasional croak of a valiant frog, somewhere in our garden.
Ubud , a region in Central Bali is most famous for its heritage, art and artforms. The place abounds in artist communities and is thronged by tourists on the lookout for culture and comfort. The history of Ubud documented since 8th century states that a holy sage from India , Rishi Markandeya spread the teachings of Hinduism across Bali and Java. He is believed to have built many significant temples around Ubud and is credited for imparting scientific knowledge to the Balinese villagers who till date practice the same old irrigation technique for their terraced paddy fields.
The rise of Ubud as a land of artists and artisans can be traced to the 17th Century . Following the disintegration of the Majapahit kingdom, many nobles migrated to Bali. The political instability and feudal wars were rampant and a young prince from Klungkung was determined to make a statement by commissioning the construction a grand palace in Sukawati symbolizing power and aesthetic beauty. Artisans from all regions of Bali helped in its arduous construction and many chose to stay in Ubud.
Ubud, the name derived from Balinese word for medicine was indeed apt, for the land has many indigenous medicinal herbs. I find it relevant since the place has a medicinal effect on the tourists - it cures your mind and cleanses your soul with its art and artforms , perfected with practise and perseverance and guided by timeless wisdom.
Bali - the Island of the Gods, a fabled land that evokes images of picturesque beaches , lush tropical forests, verdant paddy fields and alluring artforms in our minds, a land of exotic people with their simplicity and humility coupled with innate love for nature and beauty, is an island worth visiting to rejuvenate your body, mind and soul.
A land strictly not meant for the aesthetically-challenged, Bali is predominantly inhabited by village folk who revere art, artforms and artistes.
"Om Swasti Astu", our Balinese "taksi" driver greets us as he helps us into the cab.
The long drive from Dempasar airport to Ubud, Central Bali is interesting. Prajit and I marvel at the rustic charm of the land, the tropical greenery and the fine workmanship of artisans exhibited by the buildings along the narrow road. The elaborate roof tiles , pillars , gates and pedestals of ordinary houses embody the Balinese belief in beauty and art. Our driver is pleased to know that we are Indians. "You come from the land of Ganga and Mahabharata? Goood. I am very happy to know. I am also Hindu !" , he exclaims. We pass by a gigantic statue of Khatothkach." Most Balinese people are Hindus. We have many temples here ", he adds.
In the evening we reach our bungalow at Agung Raka, Ubud. We find ourselves escorted to a cozy wooden bungalow, amidst paddy fields. But for the roosting birds and a persistent cricket, the place is serene and wonderful.
